From
its headwaters in the swampy plateaus of southwest Barre, through the
distinct valley of western Hardwick, and ultimately into and out from
Hardwick Pond, this stretch of northern Muddy Brook creates an
important corridor that links large tracts of protected lands with
other important but currently more precarious habitats. The
majority of the ecotype found along this watershed is forested, both in
the uplands and the bottomlands, and the waterway itself provides areas
of locally significant marshland and ponds. Several
large, state-owned Wildlife Management Areas are located within the
watershed, and there are direct links with the Quabbin Reservoir just
to the west.
The various tracts will be
described from north to south.
Raccoon Hill
Wildlife Management Area:
Raccoon Hill is a 416 acre Wildlife Management Area (WMA) owned and
managed by the Massachusetts Division of Fisheries and Wildlife. The
primary habitat found here is high quality upland forest that supports
a diverse array of interior breeders, with such highlights as Northern
Goshawk, Hermit Thrush and a solid representation of Warblers. Raccoon Hill Road bisects the property and is often in close contact with a fast flowing
tributary of the Quabbin Reservoir. Peripherally,
this property is the gateway to a series of impressive, privately owned
wetlands that support healthy populations of marshbirds and other
associated species.
Directions:
Raccoon
Hill Wildlife Management Area can be accessed from two locations; basically from either end
of the now-closed Raccoon Hill Road. In
planning a visit, it should be known that the western entrance is
easily accessed in any vehicle, but starts you further from side-trails
and peripheral habitats. The western access will start you closer to most of the described destinations,
but parking access either requires a high clearance vehicle or very careful, off-road-type driving.
Beginning
on route 32 in Petersham Center, continue south for about 1/2 mile
until you meet the intersection with route 122. Turn right onto route
122W and proceed another 1/2 mile until you come to the flashing yellow
light announcing route 32A. Turn left onto route 32A and continue for
about 5 miles, until you see Old Dana Road on the left (Quabbin Gate 41
will be on the right). Turn right on Old Dana Road and follow it for
about 1/2 mile, until you see an orange Fish and Wildlife gate on the
right. This gate
is the western access to the tract and provides easy parking (dont block the gate).
If you do park here, just follow the dirt road past the gate and up the hill for a little over a mile, to the eastern
parking area where on-the-ground directions for this trip will begin.
To
access Raccoon Hill WMA from the eastern entrance, continue on Dana
Road, past the orange gate of the western entrance, bearing right at
the next intersection (1/4 mile), passing Hartmans Herb Farm, and
finally coming to the intersection of Spring Hill Road (3/4 mile from
orange gate). Turn right onto Spring Hill Road and continue for about a
mile until you see rough dirt road leading down a steep hill on the right. This
is Raccoon Hill Road. You've gone a few hundred yards too far if you come across
Spooner Road on the right of Spring Hill Road.
From the intersection of
Raccoon Hill Road you have two options. One,
you can park roadside of Spring Hill Road, being very conscious not to
interfere with traffic on either road, and walk the 1/2 mile down to
the parking area, or two, you can drive down to the parking area. Walking
will only act to enhance your chances of seeing something interesting,
as this entire roadway runs through forest and past small fields and
wetlands. Driving will certainly save time and effort, but be forewarned, this road is VERY
rough, and in wet seasons often has mud along its last few hundred feet. I've
done it in a low-clearance, rear-wheel-drive vehicle, but I would'nt recommend it. If
you do drive, be sure to stop in the designated parkinglot, located on
a flat section at the site of an old farmstead now reduced to its
foundation. DO NOT drive past this point. The gate has been vandalized, but the border does need to be respected.
Exploring
Raccoon Hill WMA:
Raccoon Hill WMA is one of the areas best examples of protected climax-type upland forest outside of
the Quabbin Reservoir. This
walking trip will focus mainly on the most obvious trails of access to
explore this habitat, but once orientated on the landscape, branching
out and off of these trails can provide a full day of interesting
exploration.
For this introductory visit, leave the eastern parking lot and simply follow the abandoned Raccoon
Hill Road downslope. The entirety of this length of road (~ 1 mile) is on a fairly
steep grade, so keep this in mind for your return trip. Beginning
in the parkinglot, and really throughout the course of the trip, the
songs of interior nesting passerines will be a constant companion on
early morning and evening walks in the appropriate season. Warblers
abound, represented by Ovenbird, Black-throated Blue, Black-throated
Green, Yellow-rumped and American Redstart, along with other species
such as Yellow-throated and Blue-headed Vireos, Least Flycatcher,
Eastern Wood Pewee, Wood Thrush, Scarlet Tanager, and Rose-breasted
Grosbeak. Northern
Goshawk has been a documented successful breeder here as well, and
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker is a regular summer resident.
After about 1/4 mile downslope the canopy opens up around a small
pond and wetland that sometimes overflows the road. In summer this area is dense
with wildflowers and attracts Ruby-throated Hummingbird and a wide variety of butterflies.
The wetland itself is a good spot for breeding Cedar Waxwing, Common Yellowthroat and Baltimore Oriole.
Once past this wetland, the forest again swallows up the road and
returns to the typical high canopy habitat previously encountered. As
you walk, keep an eye roadside for the still-intact cellar holes, stone
walkways and other artifacts from the village now gone by. Some of the stonework here is very impressive.
At around the 3/4 mile mark you will make your first crossing of
the unnamed tributary that eventually flows under route 32A and into Quabbin's Pottapaug Pond. From
here to the end of Raccoon Hill Road this fast-flowing waterway will
often be in contact with the Road as the habitat turns darker with
dense Hemlock stands that offer a slightly different avian composition
than the generally more deciduous forests upslope. It's
here that species such as Blue-headed Vireo, Hermit Thrush,
Black-throated Green, Yellow-rumped and Blackburnian Warblers become
more common, and other species such as Winter Wren and Louisiana
Waterthrush are added to the mix. It
wouldn't be too surprising to eventually find an Acadian Flycatcher
breeding in these riparian Hemlocks, and there was a brief encounter
with a calling Cerulean Warbler in this area in July of 2001 that
raises questions of this species presence on the property.
Toward the end of Raccoon Hill Road you'll come across the now
washed-out bridge, and shortly after, the orange Fish and Wildlife gate
on Dana Road. At this point you can either turn around or explore some of
the fading skidder trails that radiate from the Road near the gate. These trails
don't go particularly far, but they can still be used to see additional species for the trip.
Side Trips
The above
trip along Raccoon Hill Road provides a good introduction to the
property, but between the remaining acres on the WMA and the great
supporting habitat, there is easily a week's worth of wandering in this
area. Below
will be described the most easily followed directions, but keep in mind
that any of the skidder trails off of Raccoon Hill Road can be pursued,
and getting off of the trails completely is a great way to explore the
remote areas of this tract. As
a recommendation, the steep hillsides on the northwest section of the
WMA are particularly interesting both aesthetically and ecologically,
as they are filled with interior birds, plants and vernal pools. Bring a map
though, as this hillside is both expansive and remote.
Beaver Pond:
- As a short detour before walking down Raccoon Hill Road,
head a short ways north from the parkinglot to the small beaver pond in the forest.
A trail runs from the west side of the parkinglot, past the beautiful foundation of an old barn, and to the beaver
dam blocking this seep. A
good variety of birds can be found breeding here among the standing
deadwood, including Wood Duck, Hooded Merganser, Great-crested
Flycatcher and Tree Swallow.
Tributary:
- Following the streambed that flows alongside Raccoon Hill Road can be a great alternative to walking the
road itself. The best way to access the streambed is to park at the Dana Road
gate where you’ll see this stream immediately roadside. Walking
on the stones in the stream, or along the streambank, will bring you
through areas of dense hemlock canopy with Louisiana Waterthrush,
Blue-headed Vireo and Blackburnian Warbler, and over long stretches of
deciduous forest with overhanging witch-hazel above this stony,
high-energy stream. Raccoon Hill Road crosses this stream several
times making a loop hike along both the stream and the road a nice possibility. However,
keep in mind that about ½ mile upstream this brook passes through
posted private property, which should be avoided.
Update:
The East Quabbin Land Trust
recently facilitated the purchase of 250 acres that border Raccoon Hill Road and Spooner Road.
This land was then transferred to the Massachusetts Division of Fisheries and Wildlife and added to Raccoon Hill WMA,
bringing its acreage to nearly 700 acres. This
acquisition is a major contribution to the conservation of the region’s
ecological integrity, especially considering that most of the
properties acres were slated for various levels of development and
denied public access. However,
the entirety of the property’s acres are now protected and open for
public use, making the large tracts of early successional pastures,
climax-type forests and wetlands available for both recreation and
important wildlife habitat. For more information about how the East Quabbin Land Trust is working to protect key landscapes like this,
see their web-site at eqlt.org .
***********************************************
Muddy Brook Wildlife Management Area (Patril Hollow):
Muddy
Brook Wildlife Management Area (WMA) is a 900 acre property managed by
the Massachusetts Division of Fisheries and Wildlife. Consisting mostly of rolling upland oak forests, its
relation with Muddy Brook adds such interesting and diverse features as
high energy waterways, large open wetlands, deep hemlock hollows, and
even a scrub oak frost pocket and sandplain grassland. The
majority of this WMA is in southwest Hardwick, situated in a steep
glacial valley, and the historic glacial activity still dominates the
landscape in long eskers, deep gravel deposits and small sandplains. A
wide variety of birds, along with some very interesting other species,
are found here year round, but early summer is the most exciting time
of year as the property is alive the calls of breeding forest, thicket,
and marsh birds.
Directions:
From Hardwick
Center, go west on Greenwich Road to nearly the top of the long hill (<1mile). Near
the top, turn left (south) onto Patril Hollow Road. Follow Patril Hollow for
about ½ mile and bear right at the ‘Y’ with Czeski Road. Keep following
Patril Hollow down the narrow, windy, dirt road until you reach the dead end at the closed bridge. Park off to the side of the road before you reach the bridge, preferably in the pull-out at the field left
of the road. Do not drive in the shoulder near the bridge, as this is an important
nesting spot for turtles.
Exploring Muddy Brook WMA:
Muddy
Brook WMA is a large, diverse landscape and a rewarding visit can be
had within a half hour stop or a full day of exploration. This trip will take you through the most easily accessible areas while still offering
an idea of the full landscape within the tract.
Beginning at the closed bridge, you’ll probably notice right away that bird activity here is high at any season
but winter. Spend some time at the bridge itself.
During
the breeding season you’ll be likely to find Belted Kingfisher,
Northern Flicker, Warbling Vireo, Eastern Kingbird, Eastern Phoebe,
Baltimore Oriole and Rose-breasted Grosbeak in or around the waters of
the brook and beaver dam. Looking into the water from over the bridge during warm months will reveal sometimes
1,000’s of 1-inch Black-nosed Dace swimming in schools. Spring through
summer look out for turtles nesting in the road, including Wood, Spotted, Painted and Snapping. Of course, don’t disturb their nesting activity. The
bridge is also a good spot learn dragonflies as it offers a large number and variety.
And River Otters and Beaver are always a possibility any time of year.
When you’re ready to continue, cross the bridge and bear right at the
cartroad. This takes you a short ways along Muddy Brook and ultimately to the
dam holding back a large pond. Scanning this pond will often show Canada Geese,
Wood Ducks, Hooded Mergansers, and during migration, Ring-necked Ducks and Bufflehead.
Do not cross the dam here: it leads to private property. Instead, continue
to follow the cart road along the south side of the pond. After about 150’
it intersects with another woods road that follows the south side of the pond.
Continue along this road, noticing the ‘unusual’
pines that grow roadside. These are Pitch Pine; a species typically found in
the sandy soils of Cape Cod and certain areas of the Connecticut River Valley. Here
they hint of the glacial activity that once shaped this valley, as they
are growing in what was probably the sandy material pushed up by the
edge of a glacier. Pitch
Pine really is an unusual species in central Massachusetts, but it can
still be found growing in decent numbers in the Ware River Valley
(Barre and Gilbertville), the Barre Falls Dam area, and in sections of
the Quabbin watershed. However,
this stand of Pitch Pine is one of the more impressive left in the
area, and plans are in the works by MassWildlife and the Natural
Heritage Program to manage this area in a way to promote these pines. What
that basically means is the removal of competing White Pine, followed
by a controlled fire that will benefit the Pitch. This may sound like a drastic measure, but in fact it’s reflecting a natural
process that has been lost with the introduction of good fire suppression techniques.
The dry, sandy soils that Pitch Pine prefers are prone to regular wildfire, and as a result, Pitch Pine has evolved
to be somewhat fire dependant in its ecology. When
fires pass over these areas the Pitch Pine survives while the more
generalist species such as White Pine and Gray Birch are killed. But, with wildfire suppressed, the competitors outgrow the Pitch Pine, shading out the adults and not allowing
seeds to germinate. Most of our inland Pitch Pine forests have been lost to fire
suppression, and with them, species like the Whip-poor-Will have followed.
In its current state, this road passes through the interface
of the pond’s swampy margins and the dry Pitch Pine/Oak uplands. The
wetlands here can attract large numbers of migrating songbirds, and the
roadside habitat supports such breeders as Blue-Gray Gnatcatcher,
Black-throated Green Warbler, Ovenbird and Scarlet Tanager. Occasionally
Red-breasted Nuthatch and Pine Warbler breed in the remnant Pitch Pine,
and they will be sure to increase when restoration takes place.
In about ¼ mile the
road opens up into an old field now being overrun by an abandoned Christmas tree plantation.
Currently, the Christmas trees have little ecological value other than supporting a few pairs of breeding Magnolia
Warblers. The Magnolia Warblers are actually very nice and pretty interesting,
but like the adjacent Pitch Pine forest, the fields themselves are where the most interest lies. In the theme of reading a glacial landscape, these fields are considered to be a sandplain grassland. Sandplains are areas created by glacial lakes, which themselves were usually created
by ancient waterways blocked by ice. Typically
one of two scenarios accounts for a sandplain: one is the old lake bed
was flattened and compressed by the weight of the water and ice above
it; or two, the sandplain is the remnant delta at the point where sandy
sediment entered the lake from the river. It’s
unclear just which scenario created this sandplain, but looking at the
large-scale landscape, it seems possible that this grassland was at the
bottom of the lake as the valley narrows just downstream of the area,
and an extensive acreage of wide, flat plain extends north to Greenwich
Road and beyond.
But either way we are now left with an unusual landscape feature comprised of dry sandy soils that support such specialized
species as Little-Bluestem grass and Scrub Oak. Sandplain
grasslands are also fire dependant, and the management plan includes
removing the Christmas trees and adding controlled fire as a management
tool. Currently,
and especially after this management takes place, the periphery of this
area is rich with such early successional breeders as Eastern Towhee,
Prairie Warbler, Chestnut-sided Warbler, Blue-winged Warbler, American
Woodcock and Ruffed Grouse.
Continuing
through the field and along the woods road, you will next enter the
ecological gem of the area; a two-acre frost pocket filled with Scrub
Oak. The area
will simply look like a patch of low, dense shrubs, but in reality the
area is the only known Scrub Oak frost pocket of this composition in
central Massachusetts. There are two things of interest here. One, this area is a
fully functioning frost pocket. Frost pockets are low basins, often found in
sandplains, that, as their name suggests, are prone to frost. Specifically,
these sandy basins are so dry that their humidity is exceptionally low,
therefore they are prone to extreme temperature fluctuations not
experienced in the surrounding landscape. On clear nights these areas radiate
all of their heat into the atmosphere very quickly, resulting in rapid temperature drops.
Many frost pockets in Massachusetts have had frosts recorded in them as late as July.
This late frost introduces the secondary function of eliminating most species of vegetation. In fact, few woody species can consistently tolerate frost in the growing season. Scrub Oak is one, along with certain members of the blueberry family, and here Scrub Oak has taken over
the basin. Scrub
Oak is in many ways is like Pitch Pine in that it’s unusual in central
Massachusetts, it grows in poor, often glacially affected soils, and it
thrives in situations with regular fire. Or in this case, frost has worked to kill the competition much like fire. This area will also begin to be managed by way of selective mowing and controlled fire. Basically, both the Pitch Pine and Scrub Oak can be described as ‘disturbance dependant’ species. In
Massachusetts, large areas of Scrub Oak support some of the world’s
rarest moths, and in Muddy Brook the feature is a goldmine for the
suite of early successional breeders, along with pairs of Hermit Thrush
which show a surprising affinity for sandplain habitats.
The
woods road runs through the heart of the frost pocket, but eventually
you will notice a more consistent tree canopy forming above, and
finally, the road will turn sharp to the left, with a view of an
expansive marsh before you.
This is another great spot to simply linger and watch. Otters
and beaver are regular, and birding by ear will reveal a terrific
variety of marsh breeders, including Virginia Rail. It’s also great habitat for the state endangered American Bittern, so be sure to report any observations
of this birds. Barred Owl and Northern Raven are consistently had here.
Pushing
on further will bring you past a small beaver pond with nesting
Flickers, Great-crested Flycatchers and Tree Swallows. Further
along will bring you past a swamp with nesting Canada Warblers and
Winter Wrens, and the final leg of the road brings you over eskers
(streams that ran under glaciers and clogged with gravel that, when the
glacier melted, left serpentine ridges upon the landscape), past vernal
pools, and through Oak and White Pine forests. The trail will meet Muddy Brook Road, and across Muddy Brook Road, it continues on the New England Forestry
Foundation land described above.
However, for an interesting
loop, turn right onto Muddy Brook Road and walk downhill. In
a short way you’ll come to another closed bridge, alive with Cardinal
Flower in the summer, and once across, look for the trail after about
200’ to the right. Before you take the trail, though, walk a bit more on Muddy Brook
Road noticing the large Pitch Pine and Scrub Oak, especially on the left side of the road.
These
two species occurring together like this make the classic Pitch
Pine-Scrub Oak community, and to a degree, will look somewhat like the
outcome of the future management near the closed bridge at the start of
your trip.
Back
on the return trail, you will basically be following the north side of
the extensive beaver marsh seen soon after the frost pocket. You’ll
pass through a dense hemlock thicket with breeding Blue-headed Vireos
and Blackburnian Warblers, extensive oak forest, and finally through an
area where the trail is lined with more Scrub Oak. After about a mile you’ll also see large Pines that resemble Pitch Pine, but
are actually planted Scotch Pine. Notice the yellowy appearance near the tops. Shortly you’ll be back on Patril Hollow Road.
Turn right, past the vernal pool on the left, continue past the private residence, and return to the closed bridge
where you began.
As an interesting side
trip, walk over the closed bridge and continue on Patril Hollow Road. You’ll
first notice a bank of more Scrub Oak on the right, and about a quarter
mile more on the right, the road overlooks a vast vernal pool.
Update:
The
East Quabbin Land Trust has recently purchased an additional 172 acres
on the East side of Muddy Brook, abutting the south side of Muddy Brook
WMA. EQLT then helped to add this tract to the Muddy Brook WMA, protecting even more of this important valley from
development, graveling and other industrial fates. Currently access is of this
parcel is difficult, but trails should soon open for the public.
***************************************
Hardwick Pond:
Hardwick Pond is a shallow, warm water
lake fed by Muddy Brook in southwest Hardwick. Despite much of its western shore
being residential, this area is still important for a wide array of wildlife and plant communities. Its most important feature is the 70+acres of shrub-marsh at its inlet that supports breeding marshbirds,
a wide diversity of songbirds, and rare plants.
Directions:
From Greenwich Road, Hardwick near the
Ware town line, turn east onto Hardwick Pond Road. In about ½ mile there will
be a public boat launch on the right. This is a good spot to scan the lake, or
to launch a canoe or kayak.
Exploring
Hardwick Pond:
For quick visits, Hardwick Pond can
be scanned from the public boat launch. Spring
brings flocks of early Tree Swallow, and autumn brings sometimes large
flocks of Chimney Swifts and all five species of northeastern swallow. Though not yet documented, Hardwick Pond would be expected to support migrating diving ducks.
Keep in mind that during the warm months Hardwick Pond is active with boaters, so a trip to see birds on the lake at
this season will often be frustrated.
When parked at the
boat launch, notice the small peninsula directly before you. This
is a fragment of the more extensive spruce-tamarack bog that broke off
of the floating mat at the north end of the pond years ago and drifted
down to this point. Spruce-tamarack bogs are rare in central Massachusetts and
this unusual plant community is one of the most easily observed around. Other
rare species, especially dragonflies and plants are associated with
these habitats and this patch should be monitored.
If
you have a kayak or canoe, launching from the public access and
paddling due north to the shrub marsh is always a good idea. These 70+ acres are divided by a slow, meandering channel that will take you nearly a mile into a surprisingly
quiet, surprisingly remote feeling environment rich with birds and interesting plants.
The entire marsh has a naturally acidic composition, and as a result, the plants that it supports are of a more bog
orientation. Floating mats of sphagnum moss support Spatulate-leaved Sundew,
Rose Pogonia, Swamp Loosestrife, Pitcher Plant, Wild Cranberry and Royal Fern.
Note that Rose Pogonia looks similar to the state-listed Arethusa, and
Arethusa should be reported to the Natural Heritage and Endangered
Species Program (NHESP). Rising
from these mats are dense shrubby tangles of Swamp Azalea, Elderberry,
Alder, Leatherleaf, Sweet Gale, Poison Sumac, Highbush Blueberry,
Arrow-wood and Mountain Holly. And on the west side of the marsh is an
extensive Spruce-Tamarack bog, told from its emergent Black Spruce and
Tamarack.
This overall system is very special, and it’s not at all surprising to find that it supports a high diversity
and density of breeding birds.
Virginia Rails are
the flagship of this marsh and can be heard calling in the crepuscular hours. The
habitat is also prime for American Bittern, Least Bittern and King
Rail, all endangered species in Massachusetts. These species should be especially listened for, and if heard, their presence should be documented with
NHESP. Calls and reporting procedure are listed on the ‘Conservation’
link in the side bar. But please, do not disturb these birds by playing tapes
of their calls.
Paddling
through in the summer brings you within feet of Eastern Kingbird nests,
and the songs of Catbirds, Yellow Warblers and Swamp Sparrows are
constant companions. At times a dizzying number of Turkey Vultures can be
seen soaring in the morning sun, or when flushed from the nearby Hardwick Landfill.
And throughout the warmer months, keep an eye out for the state-listed Wood and Spotted Turtle. Like the rare marshbirds above, their presence should be reported to NHESP, but they should also not be
disturbed.
