Petersham TTOR

The town of Petersham has a wealth of conservation property, with some of the most interesting being the various tracts held by The Trustees of Reservations (TTOR). Ranging from the open fields of North Common Meadows, to the upland forests of the Brooks Woodland Preserve, to the riparian hollows of the Swift River Reservation, a great diversity of habitat and species can be explored within the 1,100+ acres protected here by TTOR. On their own, these properties are ecological gems, but because they are contiguously linked to other, even more expansive conservation properties such as Quabbin and Harvard Forest, the ecological importance of these tracts is emmense.

Though nearly contiguous, the Swif River Reservation is divided into three tracts, mainly due to its size (439 acres) and terrain, consiting of high, step ridges seperated by the fast-flowing East Branch Swift River. Each of these sub-tracts make for terrific destinations, and because the Swift River links them all, this property can be explored in its entirity in the course of an ambitious day. There are over 7 miles of trails on the property, and maps can be obtained at TTOR's Swift River page at http://www.thetrustees.org/pages/367_swift_river_reservation.cfm.

The Slab City Tract of the Swift River Reservation is perhaps the most diverse of the three tracts, providing nice riparian, upland and meadow-like habitats. This will usually be a productive stop year-round, as bird species present represent the niches of all three of these ecosystems during all seasons. Highlighted breeding species include American Woodcock in the meadows, Northern Raven on the ledges, and a strong showing of interior nesters, such as Hermit Thrush, Winter Wren and Blackburnian Warbler. Autumn brings an exciting number of migrants to the tangles around the interface of the meadows and the marsh of the Swift River, while winter can often provide encounters with Evening Grosbeak, Northern Shrike and Saw-Whet Owl.

Beyond birds, this tract will always make a nice stop for just getting out. Trails winding about the the meadows are alive with butterflies in the summer, trails along the river put you in the midst of an ancient riparian hemlock hollow, and following the trails up the steep ridge offers a vast eastern view toward forested hillsides that include the protected conservation land within TTOR's Brook's Woodland Preserve, Harvard Forest and Audubon's Rutland Brook Sanctuary.

From Petersham center, continue the short distance south on route 32 to the intersection of route 122. Turn left (east) on 122 and continue just about a mile down the winding hill, until you see a large pond (Conner's Pond) on your left. Across Conner's Pond, at the bottom of this winding hill, on the right, is a green Trustees of Reservations sign announcing the Slab City Tract, just before the bridge over the East Branch Swift River. Spring through autumn turn right at this sign and down the steep gravel grade into the parking lot below. However, if there's snow or ice, DO NOT attempt to use this parking lot. Instead, continue about 100 feet on route 122, cross the bridge over the East Branch Swift River, turn left immediately onto Pat Conner Road, and often a parking spot will be plowed at the dam of Conner's Pond. From here it's just a short walk across 122 to the Slab City Tract.

The Slab City Tract offers a variety of options per visit, ranging from simple strolls through the meadows adjacent to the parking lot, to a full-tour of the tract's many trails. This description will focus upon a wide-loop around the property that brings you through a good representation of what this tract is all about. As a warning, most all trails into the uplands are very steep, and for those looking for an easier walk on an even grade, the first part of this trip, through the meadow and along the river, is both rewarding and relatively easy.

Leaving your car at the parking lot, walk past the gate and into the meadows. This is the remnants of an old farmstead and lumber operation that's now being kept open for historical and ecological purposes. Spring through fall trails will be mown through the grass, and in winter, these trails are often kept open by snow-shoers and cross-country skiers. Follow the trail on the left that winds along the marsh in the Swift River's Chestnut sided Warblers, and Swamp, Chipping and Song Sparrows, among many others. And to round out the year, winter brings the possibilities of Saw-Whet Owl at the periphery, Northern Shrike and Evening Grosbeak in the open, and beginning in late January, the courtship flights of locally breeding Northern Ravens. basin. The entirety of this marsh/meadow interface can be incredibly active in the autumn with migrating vireos, thrushes and warblers, often showing great diversity in species, as well as their sheer numbers. An impressive list can be put together in the morning or evening by spending an hour or two along this 100 yards of wet tangle. Elsewhere in the meadow, and at different seasons, attention paid to the drier aspects of this habitat will reveal interesting species. Arrive at dusk in spring to hear the courtship calls and to watch the displays of American Woodcock. Summer offers a large number of butterflies and wildflowers, along with the songs of breeding Least Flycatchers, Blue-winged and

Continue on the trail alongside the marsh as it begins to enter the forest. At first the left side of the trail will be marshy to swampy. This always seems to be a reliable spot for migratory Swainson's Thrush, Winter Wren, White-throated and Fox Sparrows. However, as you progress, The East Branch Swift River begins to collect itself back into a well-defined bank to become a fast-flowing waterway through dense hemlock stands. Besides being just a beautiful stretch of riparian forest, this is good spot for breeding Brown Creeper, Hermit Thrush, Winter Wren and Louisiana Waterthrush. The trail passes this habitat for a few hundred yards until it come to a gate marking the property boundary. Do not cross this gate, but remain on the Trustees' property.

This gate represents the end of the flat-land experience, and from here the tour will move into the uplands. A few yards from reaching this gate, on the right (west), is a rough-but-marked trail that leads straight up the forested hillside. Follow this trail carefully, first up the hill, then north, across the hill, until the trail meets a well-defined cart road. From the river to the cart road, this rough trail goes for about 1/4 mile. At this intersection, follow the cart road in a general northwest direction, uphill (going downhill on the cart road will bring you to the back of the meadow; the rough trail was used to eliminate backtracking).

This cart road follows a relatively even grade along the ridge, through a tremendous mixed forest of oaks, maples, birches and deep hemlock stands as it winds past impressive rock formations, ledges and vernal pools. Breeding birds to be heard up here are Blue-headed Vireo, Hermit Thrush, Yellow-rumped, Black-throated Green and Blackburnian Warblers, Purple Finch and perhaps Evening Grosbeak. And if present, as they are often are, Northern Ravens can dominate the scene with their antic-like activity around their nest site. I won't reveal the location of the nest site, but if you are off-trail and happen across it, please use common sense and courtesy by leaving the immediate area quickly and quietly. It's a real treasure to see and hear this pair year after year on the property, and they can be quick to abandon a site if they feel that it's been compromised.

As a short but great side-trip, look for an un-marked trail on the right hand side of the cart road that climbs steeply uphill to the east. At times it can be hard to find this trail, but begin to look as the grade of the cart road begins to level off and enter a darker hemlock area. There will be a large and usually obvious vernal pool on the left, and just after the pool, on the right, is a well-worn, but sometimes elusive foot path. This short path leads about 50 yards up, around some huge rock out-croppings, and onto a cleared ledge that gives a commanding view towards the east. Below you'll see the meadow, across route 122 is Conner's Pond, northeast is Brook's Woodland Preserve, east is Audubon's Rutland Brook Sanctuary, and south east is Harvard Forest.

Back on the cart road, continue north along the ridge, around some interesting interior ledges, and finally through some slightly younger-looking hardwoods, until the road takes meets another in a "T". A left on this new cart road will take you a short ways to trail-less MDC land. A right, downhill, will take you back to the meadow, and soon after, to the parking lot. Two point of interest and this down-sloping road. First is the Red Pine plantation on the left that can harbor Red-breasted Nuthatches year-round. Second is a small, tangled wetland near the bottom of the hill on the left whose stream passes under the road and into an Alder stand in the meadow. Both of these swampy thickets are excellent for migrating passerines.

To reach the Davis tract, turn left (east) onto route 122 after Petersham center and continue for a few miles, first passing the Slab City tract of the Swift River Reservation, and finally turning right onto Glen Valley Road. Continue down Glen Valley for about a mile, passing by the official entrance (signed) for this tract on the right, until you see Carter Pond Road on the left, about 1/4 mile after you've passed the official entrance. Directly across the outlet of Carter Pond Road, on the north side of Glen Valley Road, is a green TTOR gate and a small parking area. For this initial visit I've decided to begin here, however, a stop at the official entrance will offer interesting printed material and may be worth checking on the way by.

Parking at the gate, but of course not in front of it, walk down the old woods road a few hundred feet to see the East Branch Swift River, the waterway that in a short distance flows into the Quabbin Reservoir and results in one of the largest reservoirs of its kind in North America. At this spot however, the Swift is much more modest as if runs under a canopy of hemlock and black birch, through an old mill site, and then simply around the bend. Standing on the stone work of this mill site riverside always seem to be interesting, as the surrounding habitat supports such species as Yellow-throated Vireo, Louisiana Waterthrush, Black-throated Green Warbler, Scarlet Tanager and Rose-breasted Grosbeak, among others.

On the up-stream-side of the mill site you'll notice a rough trail that parallels the river. Following this trail will bring you through an interesting ecosystem and occasionally into a close proximity with such birds as Winter Wren, and Canada, Yellow-rumped and Black-throated Blue Warblers. Quickly you'll notice that the River and trail become separated by a narrow strip of wetlands, runoff channels and small oxbows, creating wet tangles that can be particularly active with warblers, vireos and thrushes during migration. Eventually the wetlands fade away, leaving the trail and river separated by only a steep bank in an area of very old hemlocks with ancient-looking white pines scattered about. It's also about this point that the Swift takes a sharp dog-leg north, while the trail turns sharply south, straight up the steep hill and into the uplands. In low water it's possible to cross the river here and meet up with a trail that runs parallel to the north bank of the Swift, but for this tour I would recommend following this south-side trail into the uplands. Never try to cross this river during high water as the force of this flow can be dangerously hard and fast, and frighteningly cold in the spring.

Moving uphill on this rough trail will bring you into a more deciduous, younger forest until this trail meets up with a slightly more significant trail when the grade begins to level off. Follow this wider, more worn trail east as it winds about, eventually doubling back and heading west. There are two interesting spots of note up here trailside. First is a very large glacial erratic (boulder deposited during the Ice-Age) cleaved perfectly in two, perhaps by the slow persistence of roots of a long passed tree, or, maybe by the even slower persistence of countless freezes and thaws. And second is an unexpected north-facing vista that's been cleared away to reveal the slopes and ridges that guide, and are being guided by the Swift River as it flows south and through the valley below you.

Shortly after the vista the trail intersects with an old woods road. Follow this woods road downhill (west) and you will shortly be in the 'official' parkinglot for this tract where there is a kiosk providing maps and other information. From here, the loop can be completed by walking west on Glen Valley Road, downhill, and within about 1/4 mile you will be back at your car. But don't take this roadway walk for granted; this is the reason that you didn't park in the official parking area in the first place. This seldom driven road offers terrific birding between the two points as it passes through mature mixed forest, and it's steep grade falls off of the southside of the road and puts the canopy much closer to eye level, providing nice looks at Yellow-rumped and Black-throated Green Warblers, Scarlet Tanagers, and the rest of the suite associated with this climax-type habitat.